Santiago the Day After

We slept in till about 8.30 this morning and had a very nice breakfast at our hotel. We were on our way by 10.30 to the shops.  Jan & I bought small silver shells on silver chains.  Joanie got a jet bead bracelet with a silver shell dangling from it.  Sandy hasn´t made up her mind yet.  Soon it was time to go to the cathedral for 12 oclock mass.  We meant to get there early as we had heard seats would be scarce if we arrived after 11.30  Of course we werent early.  We did manage to get seats.  The service was in latin, there were 8 - 10 priests each doing a part of the service.  A nun was singing Ave Maria which sounded incredible, her voice reverberating strongly throughout the cathedral.  Hallalujah chorus was also sung with the congragation joining in.  There were pilgrims arriving still with their packs onñ a group of small school children were seated cross legged on the floor right at the front of the cathedral.  THe last thing to happen at the service was the swinging of the botafumeiro.  This is a very large silver incense burner probably about 3 feet around and 5 or 6 feet tall.  It is lowered from the ceiling by ropes by a group of 8 los tibuleiros (men) .  THe lid is removed and the incense is lit and smoking.  It is again raised up and in an intricate coordinated way it is swung back and forth going higher and higher almost reaching the ceiling on each side of its swing.  Smoke and embers escaping - making the cross legged children duck!   It was an incredible experience none of us will forget.  All the priests then offered communion to all who wanted to receive it.  Afterwards we walked behind the statue of Santiago to hug him from the back...it is a tradition, then we filed past the crypt which holds the remains of St. James.

After church we wanted lunch and some shopping.  We finally found a place called El Bocalino which was great...seafood starter on pilgrim shells which they gave us to take away - we gave them all to Jan for her beach house !!
Joanie Jan and I were then ready to shop while Sandy went off to find an english walking tour of the city.
When Sandy returned she told us about her tour.  She discovered a market that she will take us to tomorrow, a nunnery and a monestary and a beautiful garden and some information about the botafumeiro in the catheral.
 It has been in existance since the 13th century.  It weighs 53 kg, swings from north to south´the rope system was built in the 16th century and is operated by 8 men.  In 1 1.5 minutes it reaches a speed of 68 km an hour and almost touches the walls.
At about 8 pm we went out for a final celebratory wine in Santiago - we saw Welsh Jillian and Claudia from Brazil. - making our goodbyes to our camino friends complete.